Lennox Head

I share a house, located at the end of a quiet cul-de-sac, with 4 other people in their late 40's. It gets a little crowded at times, especially around the bathroom and kitchen but the general vibe is quite nice so far. My only concern is that you never know who's coming next, since people tend to stay no longer than 2 weeks. The owner, Sam, comes on a daily basis to make sure everybody's happy; he is very easy going. He designed and built the house very nicely; he's open to alternative sources of energy and he set a nice garden around the house, filled with bromeliads, zamias, palms, aspleniums, syzigiums and other natives. His girlfriend, Mandy, is involved with the local theatre. The house features huge sliding doors to the garden; the doors are open night and day with a lot of nocturnal visitors; I can wake up in the middle of the night, go to the living room and see cute lizards, funny frogs and a great variety of bugs! Mosquitoes too, which is quite a drag for us "Californians"! As you understood we don't have nets, so everybody is welcomed!
Many of you asked me about the surf. I didn't have to say much until 3 days ago when things changed quite suddenly; a south swell started filling in late in the morning; I didn't know about it, and after a mellow session at Broken Head, I decided to drive along the coast just for fun; I didn't realize that Lennox Head was just around the corner. The day before I was talking with Bob MacTavish about the movie "The Inner most limits of pure fun" and I was commenting about the fact that probably the hill (where they were sitting and checking the surf during the movie) was probably fully developed; with my surprise he remarked it was not true and the point was still covered with grass and trees; he was right, Lennox Head is still pristine and untouched: from the look out, on top of the hill, dreamy lines were wrapping around the point and peeling into the bay with absolute perfection; just few guys out, I decided to take advantage of it. I thought that since water temp was about 78 F. and air temp was 80 F., a pair of trunks was the only thing I really needed. I walked on soft grass from the top down to the blue water and jumped from razor sharp rocks into the line up. This is one of the most beautiful waves I've seen in my life; it is also one of the most hardcore I ever surfed: fast and hollow, it offers barrel time with a dropping tide. Everybody in the water rips with great attitude and a mellow vibe. I never saw such a high level of surfing in just one spot. I can say I couldn't have surfed this place without the experience built during my last year of surfing in San Diego: once made the drop, it feels like being on a down bound train, racing through hollow sections on a shallow reef. The hardest part is to get out of the water; your feet slip into crevices, the rocks are covered with barnacles; sea urchins just wait for you down below, meanwhile foamy white water keeps pounding on your back; I should take a picture of my bloody feet after just 2 sessions. The following day Lennox Head was breaking with overhead sets. Today I surfed again for hours...I'm so tired but these waves are awesome and it's hard to get out of the water. I got barreled. Getting covered is like stepping into a magical world, the sound of the water is so different: what a pleasant surprise! I was very happy with my surfing and I enjoyed every minute of it. My body is so tired I can barely move.